Recession Special
No one has gone unaffected by the economic crisis in which we find ourselves. In times like these, chocolate enthusiasts may find themselves facing tough choices. For some of us, giving up what has become an expensive chocolate habit is not an option. Neither is a $30 Porcelana bar. Where can a cash-strapped chocolate lover turn to satisfy their habit without compromising their tastes?
The answer–surprisingly–is Trader Joe’s. I generally regard TJ’s chocolate selection as a novelty, and an industrial guessing game (what company is making this for them? What have they put in it to make it so cheap)? Some time this year, however, I noticed that my local store stocks three Valrhona bars. Not the good ones, mind; the generic kind that don’t need (or merit) a lot of explanation. All the same, at three bills a piece, Le Noir Amer 71% is the best choc-for-your-buck, period.
Valrhona is among my very favorite companies; their “grand crus” opened my eyes to the potential of fine chocolate. Le Noir Amer is their poor cousin. This unassuming 71 starts with vanilla, the vanilla grabs on to the cocoa flavor and keeps it from getting lost in the first rush of sweetness. As it begins to melt, a suggestion of dark roasted beans develops, and like most of Valrhona’s bars it lingers on the palate, in this case with a hint of coffee. On a good day you can imagine floral notes in the beginning, or dried spices at the end, but this is really just a bar for eating. The percentage allows enough chocolate flavor for some integrity, without being too dark–the beans used are probably not delicious enough to hold the spotlight.
Valrhona’s better bars suffer from a characteristic vanilla flavor; with Le Noir Amer it is an asset. Valrhona fans will instantly recognize the taste, and if you’re not paying attention you can imagine it’s Guanaja or Caraibe. And while the bar doesn’t approach their best in terms of flavor, the texture is right on target: a smooth, rich mouthfeel, immensely satisfying. Those forced to curb their chocolate spending should add this guy to their list.
Tags: bar, bean to bar