Theo 12pc. Collection
Thanks to a generous friend who just visited from Washington, I’ve had a chance to sample Theo’s bonbons (their shelf life does not allow for them to be sold nationally). It’s a rare thing…er, kind of…for a bean-to-bar company to make bonbons as well. Typically a company that specializes in bars doesn’t have the resources or will to make quality bonbons. Despite Theo’s dedication to organics and fair trade, their flavored bars and new confections are the standouts in their line, and I had high hopes for their bonbons.
The box isn’t half bad: an attractive glossy photo sleeve over stock paperboard. The bonbons were a little bigger than your usual high-end enrobed pieces, a little over a square inch on top. The enrobage is excellent, thin but not fragile, and held tight to the form of the piece. The decor is a nice mix, as well: some sprinkled ingredients, some fork-marks, some decorated with chocolate tiles. The overall impression upon opening the box was professional and understated.
The ganaches (most of them were enrobed ganaches) had a peculiar fatty texture and creamy flavor against which each flavor had to compete. The prominent position of butter on the ingredient label is probably the culprit. I think there is a significant amount of butter in each recipe–maybe each formula begins with a "base" ganache which is then divided up and flavored in different ways. This is an efficient strategy, but not a creative one. There is nothing wrong with butter per se, but in Theo’s bonbons it dominates, creating a mouthfeel that is at once soft and firm…like Crisco. Mostly it distracts from and brings down the chocolates, but a few shine despite it.
Mint. OK, lots of eager chocolatiers are ready to use the freshest, most natural ingredients to flavor their chocolates, and when it comes to mint they get it from a garden, or a specialty supermarket, and it’s spearmint, and it’s freaking nasty. If you haven’t before, take a moment to stop and think about the flavor of a mint leaf (or, that failing, spearmint gum). Now consider the flavor of a Junior Mint or an Andes. Peppermint and Spearmint are worlds apart; one of them is delicious with chocolate and the other one isn’t. For some reason fresh peppermint doesn’t show up in supermarkets the way spearmint does, but if you can’t find it just suck it up and buy a good peppermint extract or oil. Your customers will thank you.
That said…the Ivory Coast was the first piece I went for: aside from chocolate the only flavor was some cinnamon. The chocolate lost out to the butterfat, with just a hint of dark, roasted flavor, though the cinnamon did come out in the end. Given that Theo processes cocoa beans, I was surprised at how small a role chocolate flavor played in these bonbons. The Lemon was probably a white chocolate ganache, but it came across as an artisanal version of a Whitman’s piece. Very sweet with a taste of lemon curd, soft and gooey, and an unfortunately long aftertaste of bitter pith. My friend and I both regretted tasting this one.
The Fig Fennel was a winner, though. Pureed fig permeated the ganache and interfered with its fattiness, adding a welcome sweetness to boot. The fennel flavor grew gradually, but ended up overstaying its welcome: there was a strong aftertaste and astringent feeling. The description of this piece points out a "Washington Merlot". This is missable, but if you look for it, there is a nice warm fruit flavor that rounds out the fennel after the first shock of fig. The best piece in the box? Scotch. The scotch itself was more smoky than peaty, and stood up extremely well to the butter. The latter became a stage on which the scotch could shine. A hint of sweetness at the beginning reminds you that you’re eating chocolate.
There were a few pieces that weren’t ganache–a couple examples of peanut praline, pate de fruit, caramel. Nothing worth another paragraph of description. All in all, the chocolates were interesting, but not something I’d be inclined ot try again. Given the price point I’ve had better, but also a lot worse. It’s a good effort, but like others before them (I’m looking at you, Cluizel), Theo has demonstrated that bonbons are not their specialty.
Tags: bean to bar, bonbon, confection